How to pick an electric outboard or trolling motor, size your battery and set it up safely, in plain language.
A trolling motor is built for slow, quiet, precise boat control: holding on a fishing spot, creeping along a bank, or pushing a kayak or jon boat at a few miles per hour. An electric outboard is built to be your main propulsion, with a higher-power motor, a proper tiller and more speed for tenders, dinghies and small boats. If you mostly fish, start with a trolling motor. If you need to get from A to B, look at an electric outboard.
A common rule of thumb is about 2 lb of thrust for every 100 lb of fully loaded boat weight (hull, motor, batteries, people and gear). Go higher if you fight wind, current or tide.
Higher-thrust motors need higher voltage. Most motors up to about 55 lb run on one 12V battery, 70–80 lb motors usually need 24V, and 100 lb and up usually need 36V. You can build 24V or 36V from several 12V batteries wired in series, or buy a single 24V or 36V lithium battery to save space and weight.
The prop needs to sit about 12 inches below the surface so it doesn’t pull in air in chop. Measure from where the motor mounts (transom top or bow deck) down to the waterline, then add roughly 20 inches. When in doubt, go a little longer: a shaft that is too short is the more common mistake.
Saltwater models use sealed electronics and corrosion-resistant parts. If you will run in salt or brackish water even occasionally, buy a saltwater-rated motor, and rinse it with fresh water after every trip.
Traditional lead-acid deep-cycle batteries are cheaper up front. LiFePO4 lithium batteries cost more but weigh roughly a third as much, last many more charge cycles, and hold steady voltage, so the motor keeps its speed until the battery is nearly empty. For a full day on the water, 100Ah at 12V is a common starting point for a 30–55 lb motor.
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